So I’ve been in Azerbaijan for a little past 3 weeks now. I thought it was time to make some concrete opinions on how I feel about living in this country. Interesting things are still happening but it is about that time that what used to be amusing earlier on can now tick me off.
I do like (roughly in order of most to less):
- Learning new things through seeing, hearing, reading and interacting (still limited to english) every minute of the day!
- Meeting and hanging out with random people—completely random english-speaking people at the metro/on the street, travelers staying at the hostel, expats from the hash house harriers running group, U.S. Peace Corps volunteers—and finding out that many of these people are somehow within 1 or 2 degrees of separation.
- Less stress. I do keep busy with work, but there is no “do it by EOD or die”-type or competitive pressure I often felt I was under in my other life.
- My money goes a longer way but just by a tiny bit. Examples of prices here: $0.05 per metro ride, $2.50 per local Xirdalan beer at a bar, $0.40 per loaf of freshly-baked bread, $2.80 per gallon or $0.70 per liter of gas.
I do NOT like (definitely in order):
-
Being stereotyped. As an Asian female who is somewhat sociable, i.e. not spend evenings at home, I am subject to many. First, I can live with looking different and getting some stares BUT I do not enjoy the type of stares I get when I ride the metro home later at night; however, I refuse to give up my freedom and social life if my personal safety is not at risk. Second, I hate being assumed that I am a prostitute when I am traveling alone at night or at least I’m paranoid being thought as one. Third, I am amused—still, at this point—that kids ask what I am selling. (Chinese people are often seen selling things, mainly toys, on the street.)
-
Pollution, pollution, pollution. Fyi, Baku was voted the most filthy city in the world this year.
-
That public infrastructure really sucks. What the eff does the government do with its oil money?!
-
Not being able to understand what people are saying. It is frustrating not being able to easily do simple things such as buy 3 oranges (just 3, and not by kilo was the problem).
And finally, I am coping with:
-
Having more patience when waiting for things to get done. I realize that this point goes with the one about a less stressful life.
-
Water ration and showering every, uhm, let’s say not so frequently. Our building receives water supply twice a day and the water tank has to be heated up an hour before taking a shower!
-
Limited selection of food. Cuisines? Forget about anything other than Turkish or Azeri. And most restaurants usually have 5 out of the 50 items listed on the menu. Ok, to be fair, if I were willing to spend more, I’d be able to eat Georgian food but then my money would not go a longer way here. Chicken here tastes better than in the US though, I must say.
———————————————-
This is the view from my Soviet-era apartment. The mid height buildings in the middle of the picture are exactly the same as the one I live in (apparently all Soviet apts were 9 or 5 storeys, each with the same designs). Contrast them with the new buildings under construction. The shortest structure towards the front left of the picture is a school, and next to it is an auto garage, i think.

March 21, 2008 at 6:30 pm |
Ai Li,
I humbly request that you shower before we meet up in Austria. Destroy a fellow building tenant for their water if you have to.
-Jeremy
March 25, 2008 at 2:04 pm |
Seems like you’re having quite an adventure out there! I enjoy reading about them and looking at the photos. Hope work is going well and everything. Chicago misses you! Come back when all this snow goes away